A Case of Hairy Crabs
If you visit Singapore and don’t end up having crabs, you are missing out on an integral part of the food experience here. Ask the locals, and chances are they’ll rattle off a half-dozen or more ways to enjoy this tasty crustacean. But around this time each year, one crab in particular whips the island (and much of Chinese Asia) into a frenzy best described as hairy crab fever. For G and family, it’s an annual itch that can only be satisfied with repeat visits to Capital Restaurant. While every other chinese restaurant will have their own variation of crab and preparation, we’ve been loyal patrons for years there because of the consistency, value for money and a certain vinegar/ginger sauce.
The mitten crab, aka hairy crab, is a seasonal delicacy that is best enjoyed between September and November when the crabs are at their most fertile and literally oozing reproductive juices. Small in stature, the these crabs pack a umami-laden blast of goodness in their incredibly sweet roe. The meat is also quite sweet, though a pain in the ass to get at. While these crabs are found around the world, the most renown hail from the Jiangsu province and can command prices of upwards of hundreds of dollars each. Hairy crabs from the Yangcheng and Tai lakes are the most popular, with Yangcheng crabs in such demand that there is an entire cottage industry of counterfeit crabs.
Capital Restaurant has been around for 30 over years and was one of the earlier restaurants to import this delicacy. As a result, it is still able to bring in cases of hairy crabs from Tai lake (each crab comes with their own tag and serial #) and serve them up at reasonable prices. Since you pay a premium for these crabs, I still prefer them plainly steamed to fully enjoy the sweetness of the meat and roe. The in-laws prefer dousing the crab in the house vinegar sauce – a mystery concoction of vinegar, ginger, and possibly sugar that doesn’t seem to have an equal elsewhere. The mild sweetness of the vinegar really compliments the natural flavor of the crabs.
Aside from hairy crabs, I also have to give a shout out to my favorite fried rice on the island. The chef at Capital manages to fry the rice at just a high enough heat to slightly burn the grains imparting a distinctive but mild blackened taste to an already well-fried rice.
While the hairy crab season ends in October, most places will serve up this delicacy through November. For crab lovers – they are a must try, and for the best bang for your buck – try them out at Capital.
For more info about these crabs and history, check out this post.
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Capital Restaurant
323 New Bridge Rd
+65 6222 3938
